This summer I’m learning to surf. I have a brand spanking new Speedo wetsuit, a new product line for Speedo, neck to ankle to wrist to keep me warm. I have a suite of surfboards to learn with compliments of Mr M. And I have Bondi Beach at my doorstep.
And so, last Sunday (yes, I know it’s not summer yet) I sat on a surfboard for the first time in my life. If anyone is Sydney remembers last Sunday it was overcast, starting to rain, windy and the water was choppy. There were no other learners around… and for good reason no doubt!
But Mr M has faith in my ability and this day was just for me to get used to sitting on the board and to feel the ocean. Which is exactly what I did. I felt the ocean, sand and salt in my ears, my nose and somehow it managed to get between me and my wetsuit. I didn’t think anything could get in there. I don’t think I’ve felt so naked and exposed in public for a long time!
Sitting on the board trying to figure out where to put my limbs meant I did not even feel the cold. Or think about sharks. I have an irrational fear of sharks but I’ve since learned this can be rationed away by the power of the ocean and the elements and learning a new skill.
We floundered for a while and I did managed to catch a wave in, lying down of course. But by the time I realised I was on the wave an on my way to shore I noticed I was heading towards the wall of the North Bondi sea pool. I dawned on me I had no idea how to steer (a very easy lean to the left would have done the trick!) so I bailed and was swept up with the dumping wave.
After I washed ashore and regained my balance and sense of direction I felt proud to know I’d taken my first step to being someone who ‘surfs a bit’.
Excited for the next time I hit the waves… it can only get better!